The students were very timely in meeting me at the gate of Brackenhurst. We walked the 1/2 mile or so to the Matatu "station" at the main road. They encouraged me to give the creation care message.
When we got on the next available "wondermobile" I thought we had lucked out - we were the only passengers. No worries! Then we continued along the road, proceeding to pick up more people along the way. These little vans have seating for 15! They are more compact that a regular mini-van - use your imagination. The clown cars at the Barnum-Bailey circus have nothing on these phenomenons! I lost count of how many we had in the van by the time we got off - but suffice it to say that with children and bags of cassava root and what-not - we had to be up close to 25 passengers. But I'm okay with that - I felt okay with my students looking after me. We traveled about 8-10 miles in that Matatu to an intersection (see pictures above) where we picked up another miracle on wheels. Cost of the first leg - about 50 cents - time in transit - about 35 minutes.
We then waited for the next Matatu - same situation - nobody on. I learned on this leg of the journey that the speed of travel is inversely proportional to the number of passengers - meaning that since there were only a few of us on board - the driver went slow to find additional passengers. There was occasional negotiation with people on the side of the road to encourage them to take a ride, but mostly we stopped whereever a dirt road intersected the main road - which was about every 1/4 mile or so. Another variable in Matatu etiquette (!!??) - there is a continuous stream of these vehicles and drivers try to be ahead of one another so they can catch the next rider - resulting in a sort of rolling game of leap-frog - much to the dismay of regular traffic trying to pass by.
Okay - so we finally fill the van (like a 150 lbs of potatoes in the 25 lb bag). Again, the driver's definition of full far exceeds my definition. I have no idea how many we had on board - more than the last one. To give you an idea, these little vans have a sliding door. There is a helper who rides along to open the door and collect fares. By the time we stopped picking up passengers - the door could not be closed; the assistant was leaning over the passengers in the middle seat with his butt hanging out the door; and there was at least one other passenger doing the same. Many of the passengers were men, ladies, and children in their Sunday best heading for church. Once full, the driver kicked in the afterburners and we went careening down the highway at a breathtaking 45-50 mph! Cost of this leg - about 60 cents; time in transit - about 45 minutes. I would find out on the way home that the trip that had taken us about 1.5 hours in the sardine rockets would take 30 minutes in a car - but it wasn't nearly as exciting!
We arrived at the pastor's appartment in Karubi at about 11:00. The pictures to the right show the street in front of his building and a view from the open stairway to the apartment.
He didn't seem worried that we
would be late for service - after a few pleasantries, we got in his car and headed off. Now his car deserves a description as well - about a 30 year-old Peugot sedan - a compact-sized car - and it had seen its better days. I am guest of honor, so I ride in front. In the back seat are his wife, a friend, and the two students who guided me to this point. Most Kenyans are rather slim - but not William (he's about my size - see later pictures), nor is his wife! This is one time I gladly took advantage of being guest of honor.
would be late for service - after a few pleasantries, we got in his car and headed off. Now his car deserves a description as well - about a 30 year-old Peugot sedan - a compact-sized car - and it had seen its better days. I am guest of honor, so I ride in front. In the back seat are his wife, a friend, and the two students who guided me to this point. Most Kenyans are rather slim - but not William (he's about my size - see later pictures), nor is his wife! This is one time I gladly took advantage of being guest of honor.
The slum we went to was just a few minutes away. When we turned off the main road, I could not imagine that he would be able to negotiate the road with his car - but he did - and it only got worse! We bottomed out a few times - hmmmh - 4 adults in the back - wonder why.
As we arrived at the slum, I was struck by just how poor the living conditions were. I had seen
another slum (see post re Children's school), but this one seemed worse. As we drove into the slum, we were greated by a parade of Salvation Army folks - 10-12 Kenyans dressed in white, carrying a couple of flags and beating on drums. I suppose they were trying to gather up a congregation for the morning. The slum is quite large - at least 10,000 or so. HIV rates probably run in the 50-80% range. AND it is no place for a whiteman unescorted! By the way, this is a tiny slum compared to the big ones near Nairobi - one of which is home to over 1 MILLION!!!
another slum (see post re Children's school), but this one seemed worse. As we drove into the slum, we were greated by a parade of Salvation Army folks - 10-12 Kenyans dressed in white, carrying a couple of flags and beating on drums. I suppose they were trying to gather up a congregation for the morning. The slum is quite large - at least 10,000 or so. HIV rates probably run in the 50-80% range. AND it is no place for a whiteman unescorted! By the way, this is a tiny slum compared to the big ones near Nairobi - one of which is home to over 1 MILLION!!!
I didn't know what to expect as far what the church would be like - but I NEVER expected what it turned out to be (see picture to left). The church was a corrugated steel shed about 15 by 35 or so. Parishioners were seated in plastic lawn chairs - no lights - only a very simple podium and a small table. They were conducting a prayer meeting as we arrived and I was ushered to the front of the group where the pastor and I were seated. This was a very unusual service - all in swahili so I don't have a clue what was said. There were prayers, then singing, then - most unusual to me - the songs would wander off into a mumbling - each individual was either praying or speaking in tongues. Eventually someone would start singing again and the mumbling would die down as the others joined in the singing.
Finally, the pastor introduced me and motioned me to begin my message. I would read or speak a line - he would translate to swahili - I would continue - he would translate - and so on. I imagine I spoke for 20 minutes or so, then he took the basic message I presented on creation care and expounded on it for another 30 minutes or so. The message I gave was highly simplified, but basically affirmed God as creator of all things deserving of our love. And, since He is creator of all things, his creation deserves our care an attention as well. Could such a message resonate in a community of corrugated tin shacks, dirt streets, and open sewers (see pictures)? All I could reference was how we should be more attentive to farming practices that restore soil fertility (most of these folks work on nearby farm plots - if they work at all). But the pastor really brought the message home - he told them that whatever rubish (and human waste) they spread on their plots of soil would eventually be beaten into the dust; the dust would raise up to the roofs; and when it rained - and they collected rainwater for drinking, etc - they would be drinking the waste they carelessly spread around them. HE GET'S IT!!We also took communion. I have been warned that consuming anything in a non-tourist safe setting is risky - lots of problems with the water. I determined that I would take communion. The juice was kool-aid looking - but I have to say I was wishing I was a Catholic - their wine is supposedly turned into Jesus' blood for communion. It tasted like kool-aid anyway, and it has been several days with no ill effects, so I guess I'm okay.
After the service the pastor showed me the new church building they are working on. They used to be in a more substantial building, but it was torn down for a road. Then they rented another building, but the owner put a bar in the 2nd floor. So they acquired this little plot of land in the slum and constructed the shed I preached in. The new building shown to the right is behind the shed. When this structure is complete, they will use the shed for children's ministries.
By the way, the children in the slum would come up to me and greet me with "How are you?" I shook several hands and saw plenty of innocent smiling faces.
We returned to the pastor's apartment for lunch - which they did not start preparing until we got back to the apartment at about 2:00. The apartment was on the 4th floor - we passed through 3 very solid locked or lockable steel gates on the way. Also passed the kitchen of a cafe on the first floor - peeling potatoes under the stairwell - not a very inviting scene!
The apartment was very cozy - felt like married student housing - only with a camp kitchen!
The visiting part of the afternoon was very interesting - coca-cola was served - I sat there famished and wondering where I was going to pee! Finally got the nerve to ask if they had a restroom - and they did have porcelain facilities - WHEW! - didn't flush because the water supply to the tank was broken, but my needs were met anyway.
4:00 pm - dinner is served! It was all very good! Ungali (a corn starch ball); kale; tortilla-like things (little greasy); boiled & seasoned meat (don't know what kind); and a barbqued type meat (don't know what kind). I ate the Kenyan way - with my fingers. All very good and greatly appreciated by that time of day.
Our conversation wandered from tribal customs to politics to religion. These folks are very astute and it was a lively and informative fellowship. The more I get to know the people that I meet - at least through our classes - the more I respect them for their endurance and good spirit. As I have said before, in spite of the challenges they face, they are a good people.
The return to Brackenhurst was uneventful - finally arrived back home about 7:00 pm.
It has taken me several days to process this experience. Everyone's initial reaction to the circumstances I observed is that something needs to be done to help raise these folks out of the most extreme poverty there can possibly be. But HOW? In the many conversations I have had with missionaries and academics passing through Brackenhurst, the only concensus I find is that hand-outs are not the answer (the hand keeps coming back out); we must empower them to develop their way out of the slums; and there must be a change in the culture of corruption plaguing their government. Hence, ethical leadership is the long-term solution. While I came back to the safety and comfort of Brackenhurst somewhat depressed and cynical, I am starting to find some hope that the students we are producing through WBU will contribute to those solutions. And we are not the only college in Kenya with this aim. Perhaps, if they can get population growth under control and employ more ethical leadership principles, there is hope. I have also concluded that the creation care emphasis that Craig Sorley brings to the mission field is key to turning this country around. Missionaries and non-governmental aid agencies have been pouring money and energy into areas like this for many, many decades - the old ways have failed to avert what is very nearly a disaster. It is time for a major paradigm shift - my bet is on creation care!
Future posts are likely to be more nature oriented - I have determined that I am ill-equipped for the urban setting - time to take my chances with the Lions (and tigers and bears - OH MY!) (just kidding - they have lions, but no tigers or bears in Kenya - the three only c0-occur in Oz).
The last picture includes pastor William Ongara to my left, and my two student "shepards" - Besann Mugwami and Michael Kimani. William and I are of similar build - so we often joke about a common ancestory. These are great people - I am proud to have them as students, and as friends!
God Bless - HDG
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